So, there you are. You've made that pretty layette for a friend's new baby, and you're left with around 10-15g of wool. What to do with it...............
Well, for years, I've used up such oddments to make booties, using a very old pattern that is simple, and which can be made up with endless variations.
Because the top is made in a separate piece, you can vary the design considerably. You can use any stitch you want, as long as you start and end with the same number of stitches. You can add stripes, give them a lacy picot top, work in a larger stitch, such as dtr, and thread through ribbons, make them plain and sew on applique flowers or other designs.
You can make them smaller or bigger, just by adjusting the type of wool and/or the hook size.
The only limit is your imagination........
When I next make a pair, I'll add pictures, but this pattern is sooo simple, you don't really need them.
Instructions are U.K format, and these basic instructions will make a pair to suit 0-3 months.
Let's start with some DK wool and a size 4.50 hook....................
Cast on and make ch 28
Row 1: (RS) 1 dc in 2nd chain from hook, dc in each chain to end. Turn. (27 sts)
Row 2-5: ch 1, dc in first stitch, dc to end. Turn
Row 6: ch 1. 1 dc in first 4 st. *dc2tog, 1 dc in next 4 sts. Repeat from * to last 3 sts. 1dc in each of next 3 sts. Turn. (23 sts)
Row 7: (this row makes eyelets for threading tie) ch 1. 1dc in each of first 2 sts. *ch 1, miss next st, 1 dc in each of next 2 sts. Repeat from * to last 2 sts. 1dc in each of last 2 sts. Turn
Row 8: ch 1. 1dc in each st or ch 1 to end of row. Fasten off.
This completes the cuff. You can of course, make it longer simply by adding more rows after Row 5 or by working the cuff in a longer stitch, such as tr or dtr.
Just make sure you end up with 23 sts.
To work the foot:
Row 1: With RS of work facing. miss 7 sts and join wool with a sl st to next st. Ch 1, 1 dc in same st, 1 dc in each of next 8 sts. Turn. (9 sts)
Row 2 - 4: ch 1. 1 dc in each st to end. Turn
At this point, you could make the foot longer, by adding more rows, but remember, if you do, to adjust the number of stitches along the sides of the instep to correspond.
Now start shaping the foot..........................
Row 5: Ch 1. dc2tog, 1 dc in each st to last 2 sts. dc2tog. Fasten off
Sew up centre back seam.
Row 6: With RS facing, join wool at centre back seam. ch 1. 1dc in each of next 7 sts, 5dc down edge of instep, 3dc in corner st, 5dc across end of instep, 3dc in corner st, 5dc along edge of instep, 1dc in each of last 7 sts. Join to first st with sl st. (35 sts)
Row 7: ch 1. 1dc in each st to end. Join to first st with sl st.
Row 8: repeat Row 7 - a nice touch would be to work this row into the back loops only, to give a pleasant defining edge to the sole.
Now start decreasing for the sole:
Row 9: ch 1. dc2tog, 1dc in each of next 13 sts, dc2tog, 1dc in next st., dc2tog, 1dc in each of next 13 sts. dc2tog. Join to first st with sl st.
Row 10: ch 1. dc2tog, 1dc in each of next 11 sts., dc2tog, 1dc in next st., dc2tog, 1dc in each of next 11 sts. dc2tog. Join to first st with sl st.
Row 11: ch 1. dc2tog., 1dc in each of next 9 sts., dc2tog, 1dc in next st., dc2tog, 1dc in each of next 9 sts. dc2tog. Join to first st with sl st. Fasten off, leaving a long tail.
Use tail to join centre foot seam.
To make a tie to thread through the eyelets, either make a ch about 15-16 inches long, or thread ribbon through eyelets.
So there you have it. What could be simpler? I must have made dozens of these over the years, and seldom have I made 2 pairs the same!
If you're new to crochet, you will find this pattern so easy. To help you keep track of where you are, just count the stitches as you work, and that way you will know straight away if you have made a mistake. You might also find it helpful if you add a marker in a different colour at the start of every row (moving it up as you go), so that you can tell where to sl st the two ends together.
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